36.1° N
Gifu, Japan
A town in the Hida mountains on the Miyagawa river. Shunkei lacquer and solid-wood furniture, the sake brewers of the old merchant streets, then coffee, bread and soba: Rin's picks.
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Where Rin would go
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Made in Takayama
Hida Shunkei is a lacquerware brushed with clear amber urushi so the grain of the wood shows through; it is a nationally designated traditional craft. Furniture makers such as Nissin Mokko, founded in 1946, still make solid-wood chairs and tables in Takayama.
Sanmachi
A house of wood on the morning-market street by the Miyagawa: its own wooden tableware and small things downstairs, furniture by the maker Shirakawa upstairs. Closed Tuesdays.
RinChoose a chair by sitting in it.
Oshinmachi
A maker of Hida Shunkei lacquerware on the approach to Sakurayama Hachiman shrine, all brushed by hand: bento boxes and tiered boxes, and clocks and tumblers too. Closed Sundays.
RinChoose Shunkei by the grain.
Kiryucho
The gallery of furniture maker Nissin Mokko, founded in 1946, on two floors of its head office. Closed on public holidays, and on Sundays from December to February.
RinPhone before you go.
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Made in Takayama
In the old merchant streets of Sanmachi, sake breweries founded between the late Edo period and the Meiji era still brew, marked by balls of cedar hung under the eaves. They use local Hidahomare rice and brew through the cold Hida winter.
Sanmachi
A sake brewery on Kami-sannomachi, ten generations since the late Edo period. Its label, Sansya, is named after the floats of the Takayama festival.
RinBegin with the dry one.
Sanmachi
A brewery on Kami-ninomachi since 1839 that ages its sake for years, using only local Hidahomare rice. Paid tastings; no brewery tours.
RinNo ice in aged sake.
Sanmachi
A brewery on Kami-ninomachi since 1895, brewing with underground water of the Miyagawa and rice such as Hidahomare and Isehikari. It runs brewery tours.
RinSee inside the brewery on the tour.
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West of the Station
A small family kiln making everyday tableware and tea ware by hand, glazed in irabo made from Hida red clay and wood ash. The shop is often closed.
RinCall ahead to ask if it is open.
West of the Station
A shop run by a woodworking couple: their own wooden pieces, with ceramics and glass by other makers. Closed Thursdays, Fridays and the third Sunday.
RinLook at the wood first. The makers run the shop.
Kokufu
A shop for mingei tableware in an old farmhouse moved to a mountain hamlet in Kokufu. 13:00–17:00, closed Thursdays. It also publishes a small essay series, Zakko.
RinIt opens in the afternoon. Check Instagram for days off.
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West of the Station
A bakery in Okamoto-machi: bread, sandwiches, and in autumn an apple pie made with apples from Kuguno. Closed Sundays.
RinCheck the baking times before you go.
West of the Station
A boulangerie opened in 1989. Its baker, Tadashi Naruse, led Japan to third place at the 2005 Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie. It closes when the bread runs out.
RinThe croissants come out around noon.
East of the Station
A wagashi shop since 1901. Kuriyose and chestnut kinton in autumn, and a cat-shaped manju. Closed Tuesdays.
RinIn autumn, one kuriyose.
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West of the Station
A soba house on Route 41. From about fifteen kinds of buckwheat a year, four are served each day. 11:00–16:00, closed Wednesdays.
RinTwo kinds make one regular serving. Don't stop at one.
Fuyuto
A pizzeria in Fuyuto-cho: pizza from a wood-fired oven brought from Italy, and dishes with local vegetables. Closed Mondays.
RinStart with the margherita.
East of the Station
A small pasta and wine place in Yurakucho: fresh pasta at lunch, drinks and Italian dishes at night, with a counter. Closed Thursdays and Sundays.
RinOn your own, take the counter.
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East of the Station
A coffee stand in Hanasato-machi that roasts its own beans, with five or six single origins at any time.
RinPick a bean and take it home.
East of the Station
A jazz kissa in Hanaoka-machi, playing records through British Vitavox speakers, with hand-drip coffee and light food.
RinOpen into the night. Go late.
Rin is a fictional traveller. Every place here was checked by the editors to exist and be open (checked 2026-11-11). Please confirm hours on the official site before you go. Paid listings are always marked.
To see — art and sights (landmarks)
Sights · Hachikenmachi
Takayama Jinya
The office from which the Edo shogunate governed Hida, a national historic site, and the only one of its kind whose main buildings survive.
Sights · Sanmachi
Sanmachi Old Town
The merchant quarter of the Edo-period castle town. Its three streets of latticed townhouses are a national preservation district for groups of traditional buildings.
Sights · Sanmachi
Miyagawa Morning Market
A morning market of white tents along the Miyagawa: vegetables, pickles, folk crafts. Held on this riverbank since 1960, daily 7:00–12:00 (from 8:00, December to March).
Art · Oshinmachi
Kusakabe Mingeikan
The townhouse of the Kusakabe, merchants to the Edo-era magistrate's office, rebuilt in 1879 and a national Important Cultural Property. Its storehouses show folk crafts such as Shibukusa ware. Closed Tuesdays.
These are landmarks, not Rin's picks. Each was checked to be open on its official site (checked 2026-11-11). Please confirm hours before you go.