41.8° N  Hakodate

Seibu district

8 places in Seibu district, chosen by Rin and checked by the editors.

Made in Hakodate

Hams and sausages

In 1925 Carl Raymon, a master butcher born in Bohemia, opened a ham shop in front of Hakodate station. After the war he started again beside his house in Motomachi. A Hakodate company still makes hams and sausages by his German methods, and his old factory site in Motomachi holds a shop and a small museum.

  • Raymon House Motomachi

    Seibu district

    The shop of Hakodate Carl Raymon, on the Motomachi site where Raymon restarted production after the war. Grilled sausages downstairs; upstairs, a free history exhibition.

    RinEat the grilled sausage on the spot. Upstairs is free.

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  • Hakodate Kogeisha

    Seibu district

    A craft shop run by the potter Morito Domae, in the old Umetsu Shoten building put up after the 1934 fire. Pots from the studio behind the courtyard, and crafts by makers from across Japan.

    RinStart with the pots made here.

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  • Antique Hishii Elegance

    Seibu district

    Antiques in a black-plastered storehouse built in 1905 for a pawnshop: Japanese and Western pieces, old kimono and cloth. The tearoom Sabo Hishii is in the same storehouse. Closed on Wednesdays.

    RinWhen you are done, sit down in the tearoom in the same storehouse.

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  • tombolo

    Seibu district

    A bakery partway up a slope of Mount Hakodate. Homemade wild yeast, Hokkaido wheat, salt and water only, baked in a wood-fired oven. A potter’s gallery shares the room.

    RinCut the campagne thick.

    WebsiteMap

  • Bar Restaurant La Concha y Vascu

    Seibu district

    A Spanish bar and restaurant at the foot of the Daisan-zaka slope, in the old Fukaya rice shop. The chef is Koji Fukaya. Closed on Mondays and the first Tuesday of the month.

    RinOne pintxo, one glass of wine. Standing is fine.

    WebsiteMap

  • Yamazaki Yofukuten

    Seibu district

    Hakodate shio ramen in a building that opened about 90 years ago as the Yamazaki tailor’s. A broth of ma-konbu kelp and dried scallop, seasoned with salts from three places in Hokkaido.

    RinThe name says tailor. Order the shio.

    WebsiteMap

  • Asari Honten

    Seibu district

    A sukiyaki house opposite the Horaicho tram stop since 1901, eaten in tatami rooms. Its butcher’s counter also sells croquettes and other ready food. Closed on Wednesdays.

    RinFor lunch, a weekday. Thirty a day.

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  • Hakodate Motomachi Coffee

    Seibu district

    A coffee shop on the Hachiman-zaka slope in Motomachi that roasts its own beans dark.

    RinIf unsure, take the darkest.

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Rin is a fictional traveller. Every place here was checked by the editors to exist and be open. Please confirm hours on the official site before you go.