Latitude  ·  Places

48.2° N

Vienna

Austria

Klára spent one grey November day here: off the night train at the Hauptbahnhof, Gumpendorfer Strasse in the morning, Otto Wagner's pavilions on Karlsplatz and his Postal Savings Bank, the Ringstrasse at dusk, a tram, and a small bar of onyx and mirrors off Kärntner Strasse at night.

Klára passing the window of an old coffee house on Gumpendorfer StrasseKlára walking past Otto Wagner's pavilion on KarlsplatzKlára under the glass ceiling of the Postal Savings BankKlára in a narrow stone passage at nightKlára in a small bar under a wall of onyx
Klára's day in Vienna  →

Klára's day, in order

  1. 08:40

    Hauptbahnhof

    Off the night train in the morning.

    Nearby, Klára would go to: Café Goldegg

  2. 09:00

    I Gumpendorfer Strasse

    Past the window of an old coffee house.

    Nearby, Klára would go to: Café Sperl, Gastwirtschaft Steman

  3. 10:40

    Karlsplatz

    Past Otto Wagner's pavilion of green iron, marble and gold sunflowers.

    Nearby, Klára would go to: Café Museum, Vollpension, Feinedinge

  4. 12:30

    A sausage stand

    Lunch standing up.

    Nearby, Klára would go to: Bitzinger bei der Albertina

  5. 14:20

    Postal Savings Bank

    Under the glass ceiling of the banking hall.

    Nearby, Klára would go to: Café Prückel

  6. 15:20

    Michaelerplatz

    Leaning on the railing in the square.

    Nearby, Klára would go to: Demel, R. Horn's Wien, Rudolf Scheer & Söhne, Zum Schwarzen Kameel

  7. 16:00

    II Ringstrasse

    Along the tram lines as the lamps come on.

  8. 17:10

    The tram

    Hood up, by a red tram.

  9. 21:40

    III Kärntner Durchgang

    Down a narrow passage off Kärntner Strasse.

    Nearby, Klára would go to: J. & L. Lobmeyr, Augarten Porcelain (flagship store)

  10. 22:40

    A small bar

    Onyx above the door, mirrors on the walls.

  11. 23:20

    The hotel

    Boots off in the room.

What to wear in Vienna, november

  • Around 9.5°C by day and 5°C at night, with about 40 mm of rain (Innere Stadt, 1991–2020 averages).
  • Skies are often grey, and the sun sets soon after four.
  • In October a knit and a light coat are enough; it is about 15°C by day. In December it drops to about 5°C by day; add gloves and a hat.
Under the coat: an off-white turtleneck, a dark brown croc-embossed skirt that narrows at the hem, black tights.
08:40Under the coat: an off-white turtleneck, a dark brown croc-embossed skirt that narrows at the hem, black tights.KláraOn the night train the coat comes off. Under it, one knit and one skirt.
A long dark brown hooded shearling coat, closed from hem to chin; black suede platform ankle boots, an olive-brown suede top-handle bag.
09:00A long dark brown hooded shearling coat, closed from hem to chin; black suede platform ankle boots, an olive-brown suede top-handle bag.KláraA grey day. Close it to the chin and walk.
The same coat with the hood up.
17:10The same coat with the hood up.KláraAfter dark, the hood. One coat for the whole day.

All clothes are VUAL originals.

Where Klára would go

Vienna · Glass, porcelain and silverVienna · Leather goods, hats and shoesVienna · SweetsVienna · To eatVienna · CoffeeVienna · Vessels

Innere Stadt

Made in Vienna

Glass, porcelain and silver

Vienna's old court suppliers still make glass, porcelain and silver by hand in the city. Designers of the Wiener Werkstätte era such as Josef Hoffmann and Adolf Loos designed pieces for these workshops.

  • J. & L. Lobmeyr

    Innere Stadt

    Glass and lighting maker founded in Vienna in 1823. Its mouth-blown crystal is cut, engraved and polished by hand; it still makes glasses designed with Josef Hoffmann and Adolf Loos, and builds its chandeliers in central Vienna.

    KláraThe glasses Loos designed are still blown by the same firm.

    WebsiteMap

  • Augarten Porcelain (flagship store)

    Innere Stadt

    City-centre flagship of Augarten, the porcelain manufactory re-founded in 1923 in the Augarten palace to continue Vienna's porcelain works begun in 1718 (closed 1864). The porcelain is still made by hand in the palace workshop.

    KláraThe shop interior is by Philipp Bruni. Worth reading next to the porcelain.

    WebsiteMap

  • Jarosinski & Vaugoin

    Neubau

    Silversmith working in the same Zieglergasse workshop since 1847, still hand-forging cutlery and table silver; run by Jean-Paul Vaugoin, the sixth generation.

    KláraOver 175 years in the same workshop on the same street.

    WebsiteMap

Made in Vienna

Leather goods, hats and shoes

Small family workshops in Vienna have made shoes, hats and leather goods by hand for generations, some since the time they supplied the imperial court.

  • Mühlbauer Hutmacher

    Neubau

    Hatmaker founded in 1903. Felt and straw hats are still shaped by hand on wooden blocks. Two shops: Neubaugasse and Seilergasse.

    KláraShaped on wooden blocks. A hat is built from a form too.

    WebsiteMap

  • R. Horn's Wien

    Innere Stadt

    Viennese maker of handmade leather bags and small leather goods: handbags, travel bags, document cases. Three shops in the old town.

    KláraA few steps from Michaelerplatz and the Looshaus.

    WebsiteMap

  • Rudolf Scheer & Söhne

    Innere Stadt

    Bespoke shoemaker founded in 1816, a former imperial court supplier, now run by the seventh generation, Markus Scheer. It makes around 300 pairs a year, plus leather bags.

    KláraA last is cut for each foot. Shoes start from a survey too.

    WebsiteMap

Sweets

  • Demel

    Innere Stadt

    Confectioner dating from 1786 and former imperial court confectioner, still using the k.u.k. Hofzuckerbäcker title. Cakes and chocolates, with a café at the back; no reservations.

    KláraOn Kohlmarkt, just before Michaelerplatz and the Looshaus.

    WebsiteMap

  • Vollpension

    Wieden

    Café where older Viennese bake cakes from their family recipes. Two locations: Schleifmühlgasse and Johannesgasse.

    KláraFive minutes on foot from Karlsplatz and Wagner's pavilions.

    WebsiteMap

To eat

  • Zum Schwarzen Kameel

    Innere Stadt

    Delicatessen and restaurant on the same Bognergasse site since 1618: a bar and deli counter downstairs, and an upstairs dining room with its Jugendstil interior.

    KláraThe upstairs room dates from the 1901 remodel. Tiles and marquetry intact.

    WebsiteMap

  • Gastwirtschaft Steman

    Mariahilf

    Viennese Beisl in business for more than 100 years, with a daily lunch menu on weekdays.

    KláraA daily lunch plate on weekdays, in an inn over a hundred years old.

    WebsiteMap

  • Bitzinger bei der Albertina

    Innere Stadt

    Sausage stand between the Albertina and the State Opera, open from morning until late at night; known for its Käsekrainer.

    KláraThe opera house across the square. Seen from standing distance.

    WebsiteMap

Coffee

  • Café Sperl

    Mariahilf

    Coffee house built in 1880 to plans by the Ringstrasse architects Gross and Jelinek, with its marble tables, Thonet chairs and billiard tables still in place.

    KláraMarble tables and Thonet chairs. A room from 1880.

    WebsiteMap

  • Café Museum

    Innere Stadt

    Coffee house opened in 1899; its original interior was Adolf Loos's first major commission (the present interior dates from a 2003 remodel). It runs regular readings.

    KláraRight by the Karlsplatz station exit. Where Loos's first big job was.

    WebsiteMap

  • Café Prückel

    Innere Stadt

    Ringstrasse coffee house since 1903, opposite the MAK. The front rooms keep Oswald Haerdtl's 1950s redesign.

    KláraA short walk from the Postsparkasse. The 1950s interior survives.

    WebsiteMap

  • Café Goldegg

    Wieden

    A coffee house opened in 1910, with its Jugendstil interior, green velvet banquettes and a billiard table.

    KláraWalkable from the Hauptbahnhof. The 1910 room is still there.

    WebsiteMap

  • Jonas Reindl Coffee Roasters

    Neubau

    Specialty coffee roaster; this branch has its roaster on site, in view of the room, and sells beans.

    KláraThe roaster sits in plain view.

    WebsiteMap

Vessels

  • Feinedinge

    Wieden

    Porcelain workshop and shop led by Sandra Haischberger, making tableware, vases and carafes by hand in its own Vienna studio.

    KláraWorkshop and shop share one address.

    WebsiteMap

Klára is a fictional traveller. Every place here was checked by the editors to exist and be open (checked 2026-11-01). Please confirm hours on the official site before you go. Paid listings are always marked.