Latitude  ·  Places

64.1° N

Reykjavík

Iceland

Solveig spent one October day in Iceland: the black beach at Reynisfjara at first light, the old harbour of Reykjavík at noon, and the glass of Harpa at dusk.

Solveig on the basalt above the black beach at ReynisfjaraA small figure at the foot of the basalt columnsSolveig at the old harbour of ReykjavíkSolveig and her reflection in the glass of HarpaSolveig sitting on the floor inside Harpa
Solveig's day in Reykjavík  →

Solveig's day, in order

  1. 07:40

    Reynisfjara

    On the basalt columns above the black beach.

  2. 12:15

    Reykjavík Harbour

    One boot on an iron bollard by the fishing boats.

    Nearby, Solveig would go to: Kaffivagninn, Ísbúðin Valdís, La Primavera Ristorante, Omnom Chocolate

  3. 17:50

    Harpa

    Inside the glass, facing her own reflection.

    Nearby, Solveig would go to: Hnoss Bistro, Kaffi Ó-le

What to wear in Reykjavík, october

  • Reykjavík averages about 8°C by day and 3°C at night (1991–2020).
  • The south coast is windier.
  • In September a light shell over a knit is enough. In November add a hat and gloves; the day is much shorter.
A long khaki technical coat closed to the high collar, wide black trousers, lug-soled boots.
07:40A long khaki technical coat closed to the high collar, wide black trousers, lug-soled boots.SolveigThe wind is loud on the black beach. Close it to the chin.
A navy pea coat with a faux-shearling yoke, buttoned up, over a blue shirt; black boots.
12:15A navy pea coat with a faux-shearling yoke, buttoned up, over a blue shirt; black boots.SolveigAt the harbour, everything buttoned. The blue collar is the only colour.
A camel double-faced coat over a brown ribbed zip-neck knit, cream wide trousers.
17:50A camel double-faced coat over a brown ribbed zip-neck knit, cream wide trousers.SolveigInside the glass it is quiet and warm. Camel for the dusk.

Where Solveig would go

Reykjavík · Record shopsReykjavík · Icelandic woolReykjavík · SweetsReykjavík · To eatReykjavík · CoffeeReykjavík · Vessels

City CentreGrandi

Made in Reykjavík

Record shops

Reykjavík's music scene, from the Sugarcubes onward, is served by small record shops that are often also labels and venues. Smekkleysa (Bad Taste) has run its label since 1986 and 12 Tónar since 1998.

  • 12 Tónar

    City Centre

    Record shop opened in 1998 that also runs a label. Strong on Icelandic music, with a bar and café inside and live sets.

    SolveigDeep in Icelandic records, with a box of discs at 500 krónur or less.

    WebsiteMap

  • Smekkleysa (Bad Taste)

    City Centre

    Shop of Smekkleysa (Bad Taste), the label started by Björk and the Sugarcubes circle, marking 40 years in 2026. Café and bar upstairs, a performance space in the basement.

    SolveigThe basement plays; you hear it upstairs.

    WebsiteMap

  • Space Odyssey

    City Centre

    Record shop for ambient, electronic and experimental music, with many releases from small Icelandic labels; also a label and a venue.

    SolveigAmbient and experimental shelves. A place for small-label records.

    WebsiteMap

  • Lucky Records

    Hlemmur

    Reykjavík's largest record shop, with new releases, second-hand vinyl and old Icelandic records. Its operating company went bankrupt in early 2026, but another company took over and the shop stayed open.

    SolveigDeep shelves of old Icelandic vinyl.

    WebsiteMap

Made in Reykjavík

Icelandic wool

Icelandic sheep grow a two-layer fleece, a long water-shedding outer coat and a soft inner one, spun into lopi yarn. The lopapeysa, the round-yoke sweater knitted from it, is still hand-knitted in Iceland.

  • The Handknitting Association of Iceland

    City Centre

    Shop of a knitters' cooperative founded in 1977, selling lopapeysa sweaters hand-knitted from 100% Icelandic wool, and lopi yarn.

    SolveigYarn from the rain-shedding outer coat. A sweater for recording in wind.

    WebsiteMap

  • Farmers Market

    Grandi

    Clothing label founded in 2005 by designer Bergþóra Guðnadóttir and musician Jóel Pálsson, making Icelandic-wool sweaters in a modern cut. Flagship in a former fish factory in Grandi.

    SolveigA former fish factory by the harbour. Sea wind outside.

    WebsiteMap

Sweets

  • Omnom Chocolate

    Grandi

    A bean-to-bar chocolate factory in Reykjavík, with a chocolate and soft-serve shop inside; organic cacao and Icelandic milk.

    SolveigEvery bar is wrapped by hand. Have the soft serve here.

    WebsiteMap

  • Ísbúðin Valdís

    Grandi

    An ice cream shop opened on Grandagarður in June 2013, making flavours with its customers — more than four hundred tried so far.

    SolveigThe flavours change. Ask which one today.

    WebsiteMap

  • Sandholt

    City Centre

    A family bakery now run by its fourth generation of master bakers, one of the oldest working bakeries in Iceland, baking several sourdoughs every day.

    SolveigOpen from half past seven. Take a sourdough with you.

    WebsiteMap

To eat

  • Kaffivagninn

    Grandi

    Founded in 1935, Iceland's oldest restaurant, named after the little coffee van that served the harbour. Plokkfiskur fish stew and pan-fried cod tongues are on the menu.

    SolveigOn the harbour. Order the plokkfiskur.

    WebsiteMap

  • La Primavera Ristorante

    Grandi

    An Italian restaurant since 1993, with two rooms: the ground floor of the Marshall House on the old harbour and the fourth floor of Harpa. Lunch at the Marshall House runs Tuesday to Friday.

    SolveigLunch is enough. Then walk the harbour.

    WebsiteMap

  • Matur og Drykkur

    Grandi

    A restaurant that turns Iceland's old cooking into a seasonal tasting menu, with local produce, wild herbs and seaweed. In the Michelin Guide from 2017 to 2025. Dinner only.

    SolveigDinner only. Book, and stay a while.

    WebsiteMap

  • Kaffi Loki

    City Centre

    A home-style Icelandic restaurant across the street from Hallgrímskirkja, known for its rye bread ice cream. No reservations.

    SolveigCross the street from the church. Order the rye bread ice cream.

    WebsiteMap

  • Hnoss Bistro

    City Centre

    A bistro inside Harpa concert hall, open daily from 11: Nordic-leaning lunches, weekend brunch, and late hours on big concert nights.

    SolveigInside Harpa. On concert nights it stays open until the music ends.

    WebsiteMap

  • Kaffihús Vesturbæjar

    Vesturbær

    A neighbourhood café on the corner of Hofsvallagata and Melhagi, serving food from morning to night, with coffee, beer and wine.

    SolveigOpen morning to night. A place for people who live here.

    WebsiteMap

  • Kröst

    Hlemmur

    A grill and wine counter inside the Hlemmur food hall, led by head chef Böðvar Lemacks.

    SolveigA grill counter in the food hall. Have it with wine.

    WebsiteMap

Coffee

  • Kaffibrugghúsið

    Grandi

    A small craft roastery in Grandi that roasts everything in a 6 kg Giesen, buying some beans direct from farmers. It opens to the public on Wednesdays only, and runs coffee courses.

    SolveigWednesdays only. Plan the day around it.

    WebsiteMap

  • Kaffi Ó-le

    City Centre

    A specialty coffee and pastry bar on Hafnarstræti, near the harbour; ranked 58th among Europe's 100 best coffee shops in 2026.

    SolveigOne cup before the walk to Harpa. Ask about the beans.

    WebsiteMap

  • Kaktus Espressobar

    City Centre

    A small espresso bar on Vitastígur in the centre, with a second counter inside the National Gallery of Iceland.

    SolveigA small room. One espresso.

    WebsiteMap

  • Mokka Kaffi

    City Centre

    A café on Skólavörðustígur since 1958 — espresso, and art shows on its walls.

    SolveigHere since 1958. Look at the walls too.

    WebsiteMap

Vessels

Solveig is a fictional traveller. Every place here was checked by the editors to exist and be open (checked 2026-11-01). Please confirm hours on the official site before you go. Paid listings are always marked.