Latitude  ·  Places

36.6° N

Kanazawa

Ishikawa, Japan

Rin spent one day here in November: the morning train, the market, a garden of still water, the teahouse lanes at dusk, and a night by the Asano river.

Rin under the wooden Tsuzumi gate in the morningA small figure at the edge of a still water gardenRin under the straw ropes of the yukitsuriRin walking the teahouse lane at duskThe Asano river at the blue hour
Rin's day in Kanazawa  →

Rin's inn in Kanazawa

The room by the Asano river where she stayed. It follows the time in Japan.

● Live   JST

Rin's day, in order

  1. 08:43

    Kanazawa Station, Tsuzumi Gate

    Off the morning train, under the wooden gate.

  2. 09:40

    Omicho Market

    Stopping at the crabs on ice.

    Nearby, Rin would go to: Ichiba Meshi Amatsubo

  3. 11:20

    D.T. Suzuki Museum

    Sitting by the water mirror garden.

    Nearby, Rin would go to: Nosaku (Kanazawa lacquer), Kanazawa-ya Coffee

  4. 14:10

    Kenrokuen

    Looking up at the straw ropes of the yukitsuri.

    Nearby, Rin would go to: Kenjotei Café, Kenrokuen

  5. 16:25

    Higashi Chaya

    The lanterns come on along the stone lane.

    Nearby, Rin would go to: Morihachi Matcha Cafe, Higashi, Issho, Kureha, Enishira

  6. 17:10

    Asano River, Kazuemachi

    Sitting on the stone steps by the river, heels out of her shoes.

    Nearby, Rin would go to: Ichirin, Nabe Kappo Taro, Mayuzuki Kuragarizaka

  7. 19:30

    The inn

    Socks off, legs stretched out on the tatami.

What to wear in Kanazawa, late november

  • Around 15°C by day and 8°C at night; colder after dark.
  • The sun sets at about 16:40.
  • Stone paving in the teahouse streets, often wet.
  • Shoes come off at inns and in many tatami rooms.
A black leather long coat, a grey cashmere shirt, taupe flannel trousers, black patent loafers.
08:15A black leather long coat, a grey cashmere shirt, taupe flannel trousers, black patent loafers.RinThe train is warm and the station is cold. A coat you can open.
A long shearling gilet over a grey knit with full sleeves, a black knit dress, lug-sole boots.
11:20A long shearling gilet over a grey knit with full sleeves, a black knit dress, lug-sole boots.RinMidday is mild. No sleeves on the outer layer, so the arms stay free.
A hooded olive long coat, a flecked turtleneck, white barrel trousers, flat shoes with socks.
16:25A hooded olive long coat, a flecked turtleneck, white barrel trousers, flat shoes with socks.RinAfter dark, a hood. Shoes that come off easily, for the inn.

All clothes are VUAL originals.

Where Rin would go

Kanazawa · MatchaKanazawa · SweetsKanazawa · To eatKanazawa · CoffeeKanazawa · Vessels

Higashi Chaya

Matcha

  • Morihachi Matcha Cafe, Higashi

    Higashi Chaya

    A tea room run by Morihachi, a confectioner since 1625, in an Edo-period townhouse. Matcha with fresh wagashi.

    RinIt opens at nine. Go before the teahouse street fills up.

    WebsiteMap

  • Moroeya Nishi-chaya Karyo "Miwai"

    Nishi Chaya

    The café of Moroeya, makers of rakugan since 1849. Dry or fresh sweets with matcha, and zenzai with mochi toasted on a charcoal grill.

    RinDry sweets and matcha. Nothing more.

    WebsiteMap

  • Kenjotei Café, Kenrokuen

    Kenrokuen

    The ground-floor café of a teahouse at the Katsurazaka gate of Kenrokuen. Matcha from an old tea merchant and fresh rakugan from Moroeya.

    RinA long counter, so one person is fine. After the garden.

    WebsiteMap

  • Kureha

    Higashi Chaya

    Run by an old kimono house. Kaga-yuzen and crafts on the ground floor; upstairs, a tatami café over the street with matcha and fresh sweets.

    RinLook down at the street from upstairs. See the show downstairs too.

    WebsiteMap

Sweets

  • salon de thé kawamura

    Nishi Chaya

    The salon upstairs at Amanatto Kawamura, a sweet-bean specialist. Parfaits and teas made with beans.

    RinThe three-bean tea comes with a five-minute sandglass. The wait is part of it.

    WebsiteMap

  • Issho

    Higashi Chaya

    A café and gallery run by a Kaga tea maker, serving only roasted hojicha, in a former teahouse with a courtyard.

    RinNo matcha. Only hojicha. That is the good part.

    WebsiteMap

To eat
From Rin's day: crab at a wooden counter
From Rin's day

  • Oden Takasago

    Katamachi

    A Kanazawa oden house since 1936, with a dark broth kept going for decades.

    RinOrder the kuruma-fu. When the pot runs out, they close. Go early.

    WebsiteMap

  • Taishu Kappo Ozeki

    Kiguramachi

    A neighbourhood kappo since 1957: oden, rolled omelette, eel.

    RinThe omelette is half broth. Order it first.

    WebsiteMap

  • Ichiba Meshi Amatsubo

    Omicho Market

    A seafood canteen in Omicho Market. Seafood bowls and Kanazawa oden, from 8 a.m.

    RinMake it breakfast. No reservations.

    WebsiteMap

  • Kaburaki Shokudo, Nagamachi

    Nagamachi

    A dining room inside Kaburaki, a Kutani porcelain house. Market food served on Kutani ware.

    RinI would go for the dishes. When you finish, look at the plate.

    WebsiteMap

  • Nabe Kappo Taro

    Kazuemachi

    A hot-pot house started by a former geiko. Seafood simmered in a house broth, served in private rooms by the staff. Reservations needed.

    RinA hot pot where you do nothing yourself. Leave it to them, right up to the rice at the end.

    WebsiteMap

  • Ichirin

    Kazuemachi

    A Japanese restaurant in the riverside townhouse where the American printmaker Clifton Karhu spent his last years. Seasonal courses.

    RinYou eat in a printmaker's house. Look at the river and keep quiet.

    WebsiteMap

Coffee

  • Kanazawa-ya Coffee

    Kanazawa Castle Park

    A townhouse by the Kuromon gate of the castle park. House-roasted, flannel-drip coffee.

    RinWhere to sit down after the castle.

    WebsiteMap

  • Tachibana Coffee

    Ishibiki

    A specialty coffee shop in Ishibiki. No milk, no sugar.

    RinBlack only. That is fine.

    WebsiteMap

  • Mayuzuki Kuragarizaka

    Kazuemachi

    A teahouse at the foot of the Kuragari slope. Café by day, drinks at night. By reservation only.

    RinBook first. The teahouse street through the lattice is the point.

    WebsiteMap

Vessels

  • Kanazawa Choemon

    Korinbo

    The shop of Kamide Choemon, a Kutani kiln since 1879, making tableware for restaurants.

    RinMade for restaurants, so made to be used. Look at the base too.

    WebsiteMap

  • on la CRU.

    Ohnuka

    Pottery by makers from all over Japan, and things for daily life.

    RinA bit out of the way. Choose with your hands, not by the name.

    WebsiteMap

  • Nosaku (Kanazawa lacquer)

    Hirosaka

    A lacquerware shop since 1780: Kanazawa, Wajima and Yamanaka lacquer. They repair it too.

    RinA shop that repairs what it sells. I trust that.

    WebsiteMap

  • Enishira

    Higashi Chaya

    A shop for crafts and vessels by makers from the Hokuriku region, with a different solo show upstairs every month.

    RinNot just gold-leaf souvenirs. Start with the show upstairs.

    WebsiteMap

Rin is a fictional traveller. Every place here was checked by the editors to exist and be open (checked 2026-10-30). Please confirm hours on the official site before you go. Paid listings are always marked.